这条项圈是拍场常见的「茄紫豪镶」结构:七颗椭圆紫罗兰蛋面,中间最大,向后递减;每颗外圈碎钻;链身宽、密铺钻,并点缀小颗阳绿。紫绿对照,行业里常借「春带彩」来说构图,不一定指同一块料上的俏色。主石仍应是天然翡翠 A 货。梧越写这篇,是借展陈图说明:藏家在夜场看项圈时,眼睛该停在哪。
This collar is a familiar evening-sale build: seven oval lavender cabochons, largest at centre, stepping down; a diamond halo on each; a wide pavé strap dotted with small yang greens. Purple against green is the ‘spring-with-colour’ idea in layout, not necessarily two colours in one boulder. The jadeite should still be Type-A. Wuyue uses the photograph as a map: where a collector’s eye should stop when a collar comes up after dinner.
一、七颗石的递减与色口
1. The step-down and the colour mouth
中间那颗决定整条链的价格带:色要浓、要匀、水头要能吃灯。两侧三对必须对称,大小可以略减,色口不能一只粉、一只茄。椭圆长轴要顺着脖子的弧,竖着镶会显得「一排鸡蛋」。围钻钻径统一,中央主石的钻边可以略宽,但不能做成第二套项圈。
The centre stone sets the price band: saturated, even, watery enough to take the lamp. The three pairs must mirror; size may fall off, colour may not—one chalk, one eggplant. Long axes follow the neck; upright ovals look like a row of eggs. Halo diameters stay one size; the centre may run a little wider, never wide enough to become a second necklace.
二、钻链上的小绿
2. Small greens on the diamond strap
小绿石是点睛,面积远小于紫蛋面。绿要阳、要正,发黄或发闷会把紫往灰里带。链身要软、要贴颈,夜场灯光从上方打下,宽链若硬,侧面会翻白金。扣位藏在后颈,不能抢中间那颗紫。同类结构若做私洽,梧越会先定七颗石的色口表,再开金,避免先做好链再找不齐的紫。
The greens are punctuation, far smaller than the lavender. They must be yang and true; yellow or muddy green greys the purple. The strap has to flex and sit; overhead sale lights will flash white gold if the collar is stiff. The clasp hides at the nape. For a private version, Wuyue tables the seven colour mouths before gold is started, rather than building a strap and hunting unmatched purple.
茄紫项圈对配石要求极高。梧越珠宝可按预算从源头选蛋面,或用您已有的紫罗兰改项圈。拍场图仅作结构说明,不代表图中为梧越在拍标的。
A lavender collar is a matching problem first. Wuyue Jewelry can select ovals at origin to a budget, or rebuild a collar from stones you already own. The photograph is a structural example, not a Wuyue lot.