黑绒盘里这一组,是藏家最常见的「开盘」方式:吊坠、耳钉、戒指同色系、同种水,金属统一用白金或铂金围钻。主石都是天然翡翠 A 货阳绿至帝王绿色口,玻璃光、水头够,切成圆、椭圆、水滴和扇形。钻不是为了把翠「镶贵」,而是把绿从深色背景里托出来,也方便日后拆石重镶。
This black-velvet tray is how collectors usually open a viewing: pendants, studs and a ring in one colour family and one water, all in white gold or platinum with diamond halos. The stones are natural Type-A jadeite from yang green to imperial green, glassy, with enough water, cut as rounds, ovals, pears and a fan. Diamonds are not there to inflate the jadeite; they lift the green off a dark ground and leave the stone free to be reset later.
一、一盘货先看色口,再看形状
1. Colour mouth first, shape second
同一盘里色口差半级,灯光下就会「一只深、一只浅」。藏级盘货要求:浓淡接近、阳不发黄、绿不发闷。形状可以不同——圆璧、椭圆蛋面、水滴、扇形——是为了佩戴场景分开,不是为了拼盘好看。水滴适合吊坠垂感,椭圆适合耳钉成对,扇形和厚装蛋面留给项圈或戒指。
Half a grade of colour on the same tray reads as one piece dark and one pale. Collection trays ask for close saturation, yang without yellow, green without mud. Shapes may differ—bi disc, oval, pear, fan—because they are worn in different places, not because a mixed plate looks busy. Pears hang; ovals pair as studs; fans and high-dome cabochons belong on a collar or a ring.
二、围钻与成套逻辑
2. Halos and how a set is built
碎钻围一圈,钻径要统一,否则圈会缺牙。吊坠扣头做成小花簇,是为了让链与石的衔接不露白金硬边。戒指用厚装蛋面加一圈大钻,高度要能戴进手套。耳钉必须成对:长宽、厚度、色口在同一光源下并排看。盘货的意义是让买家一次看清「还能配什么」,而不是逼人当天买齐。
Halo diamonds share one diameter or the circle looks gappy. Floral bails hide the join between chain and stone. A ring wants a high cabochon and a larger diamond belt that still slides under a glove. Studs must be a pair—length, width, thickness and colour compared under one lamp. A tray exists so a buyer can see what still can be matched, not so every piece is sold that afternoon.
梧越珠宝从缅甸源头切蛋面、配钻、出成套方案。有单颗阳绿要配耳钉或改项圈,可带石或带图来问,工坊先对色口再谈金属成色。
Wuyue Jewelry cuts cabochons at origin, matches diamonds and draws a set. Bring a single yang-green stone—or a photo—and we match colour before quoting karat.