蝴蝶题材最容易做成「翅膀比石头还热闹」。梧越原则只有一句:绿是主角,翅膀是句子里的逗号。主石是饱满的阳绿矩形蛋面,金属为哑光黄金。
Butterfly rings often let the wings shout louder than the stone. Wuyue’s rule is simple: green leads; wings are commas. A full yang-green rectangular cabochon sits in brushed yellow gold.
一、蛋面怎么固定
1. How the cabochon is held
戒指贴桌面、握手,矩形四角是应力点。纯爪镶不耐磕,故用包镶锁边,底托开窗让光从侧面进来。圈口按实测手指,蝶翼伸得开时重心靠上,偏松会往掌心倒。
A ring meets tables and handshakes; the four corners of a rectangle take stress. A full bezel is safer than prongs. An open back lets light in from the side. The shank must match the measured finger—wide wings shift the centre of gravity.
二、翅膀上的三色
2. Three colours on the wings
红宝放翼尖,面积小、饱和度高。小翠放翼脉,和主石同色系。碎钻只铺翼缘。镂空是为了减重,边缘必须倒钝。
Rubies sit at the wing tips—small, saturated. Tiny jadeites follow the veins in the same green family. Diamonds only rim the edge. Openwork lightens the ring; every cut edge is softened.
旧翠改戒前,工坊会问厚度、裂络和金属过敏。梧越珠宝可从源头切蛋面再镶,也可改您闲置的阳绿戒面。
Before restyling, we check thickness, fractures and metal sensitivity. Wuyue Jewelry can cut a new cabochon at origin or reset a stone you already own.