图中这件佛手吊坠,是梧越镶嵌服务里最典型的一类高定:主石是天然翡翠 A 货水滴形阳绿蛋面。金属分成两条线——哑光黄金塑形,白金专门托钻。红宝只作点睛,不跟绿抢戏。
This Buddha-hand pendant is a typical Wuyue high-jewelry inlay: a natural Type-A yang-green jadeite pear, a matte yellow-gold hand for form, and white gold reserved for diamonds. Rubies are punctuation, not the sentence.
一、先定主石,再画金属
1. Stone first, metal second
工坊量蛋面的长宽、弧度和种水走向。阳绿色要「露肉」:包镶边不能太厚。这件用白金包镶加碎钻围一圈,既锁边,又把绿从深色背景里托出来。佛手用 18K 黄金做骨架,表面哑光拉丝,不跟钻石抢火彩。
We measure the cabochon before any sketch. Yang green needs to stay visible, so the bezel cannot be heavy. A white-gold bezel with a diamond halo locks the rim and lifts the green off a dark ground. The 18K gold hand is brushed matte so it does not compete with the pavé.
二、黄白金混镶
2. Mixed yellow and white gold
黄金负责「形」,白金负责「光」。碎钻沿手指弧线微镶,红宝只排一小段。腕部再嵌小三角翠,和主石同色系。混金要分段焊,先骨架后托钻,顺序反了钻槽会变形。
Yellow gold carries shape; white gold carries light. Pavé follows the fingers; rubies occupy only a short band. A small triangular jadeite at the wrist keeps the colour family together. Mixed metals are soldered in stages—frame first, diamond seats last.
梧越珠宝承接源头翡翠成品与旧料改款。顾问会给出成色、包镶或爪镶方案和钻量,关键节点发实拍。
Wuyue Jewelry sets origin jadeite and restyles old stones. Advisors specify karat, bezel or prong, and diamond load, with photos at each stage.