这件吊坠上下两颗天然翡翠 A 货:上为圆三角阳绿蛋面,两侧白金翅翼铺碎钻;下为整片叶雕,叶脉清晰,四爪轻托。中间一颗圆钻把两段叙事接起来。细链扣在翅尖,戴起来叶子会微微摆。
Two natural Type-A jadeites: a rounded triangular cabochon above, flanked by white-gold wings in pavé; below, a whole carved leaf, veins intact, held by four light prongs. A round diamond joins the two chapters. The chain hooks at the wing tips so the leaf can move.
一、叶雕怎么镶才不伤脉
1. Setting a carved leaf without killing the veins
叶形翠最怕爪压在主叶脉上。四爪落在叶缘加厚处,正面几乎看不见金属。底托按叶弧开窗,让种水从叶尖透到叶柄。三角蛋面用包边或隐爪,和翅膀的微镶平面齐平,避免「上面一坨、下面一片」。
Never plant a prong on the main vein. Four prongs sit on thicker margins so metal almost disappears. The back is windowed along the leaf’s curve so light runs from tip to stem. The upper cabochon is bezelled flush with the pavé wings.
二、翅翼微镶与链位
2. Pavé wings and where the chain sits
碎钻沿翅的升力线走,越靠近翠的肩部钻越小,避免抢绿。链扣开在翅的最高点,受力分散到白金骨架,不传到翡翠。日常建议短链,叶子才落在锁骨,长链容易转面。
Pavé follows the lift of the wing; diamonds get smaller toward the jadeite so green stays first. Chain loops sit at the highest points of the white-gold frame, not on the stone. A shorter chain keeps the leaf at the collarbone.
有整片小叶雕或三角蛋面,都可按此结构改吊坠。梧越珠宝会先出侧面结构图,确认叶子摆幅后再下钻。
A small leaf carving or a triangular cabochon can follow this frame. Wuyue Jewelry issues a side-view drawing before any diamond is set.