这件胸针(也可改吊坠)以一块阳绿翡翠随形雕鲤,玻璃光、水头够,头尾用阴刻线交代。黄金做哑光弧框,像一弯水。鱼头附近铺碎钻和深蓝宝,弧线上再嵌三颗冰种小圆蛋面。鱼谐音「余」,是梧越常见的吉庆题材。
A yang-green jadeite carp, carved from one piece, sits in a brushed yellow-gold arc like a wave. Head and tail are drawn with light intaglio lines. Pavé diamonds and deep-blue sapphires gather near the head; three icy round cabochons ride the curve. In Chinese, fish sounds like surplus—a usual Wuyue auspicious brief.
一、随形料怎么下托
1. A seat for a free-form carving
随形翠没有标准腰线,托要按鱼腹弧度开凹槽,三点或四点支撑,背面尽量镂空见光。爪不能插进鱼眼、鱼鳍这些薄位。黄金框与鱼身留一条细缝,戴起来鱼还会「游」,而不是焊死。
Free-form jadeite has no standard girdle. The seat is carved to the belly; three or four rests, the back opened for light. No prong in the eye or a thin fin. A hairline gap between gold and fish lets it ‘swim’ instead of being soldered shut.
二、水波上的小石
2. Small stones on the wave
蓝宝和钻做水花,面积远小于鱼,避免喧宾。冰种小蛋面用金杯包镶,和主鱼种水不同,故意做成「水里的泡」。胸针插针走黄金骨架,不穿过翡翠。
Sapphires and diamonds are spray—much smaller than the fish. Icy cabochons sit in gold cups as bubbles in another water. The pin stem rides the gold frame and never pierces the jadeite.
有随形小雕件(鱼、鸟、佛)都可按「金属做环境、翠做主角」来镶。梧越珠宝先出 1:1 纸模,确认鱼的朝向再开金。
Any free-form carving—fish, bird, Buddha—can follow this rule: metal is the scene, jadeite is the actor. Wuyue Jewelry cuts a 1:1 paper mock-up before gold is poured.